Method of knitting knit-wear

ABSTRACT

A method for seamlessly knitting knitwear having a broad neckline with a flat knitting machine includes forming a neckline by a first step in which a breast is knitted by branching off into right and left breasts from its front neckline forming portion. All knitted loops, excluding those of either the right or left breast to be knitted and including those of a front neckline, are transferred to the other empty needles, and knitting for forming increases of the front neckline at the other empty needles is performed while racking the needle bed. In a second step, one of the ends of a back and the end (close to an armhole) of either the right or left breast knitted by the first step are facing each other, and these ends are joined together by shoulder casting off. In a third step, the end of the back which is not subjected to shoulder casting off and the end (close to the armhole) of the breast which is not subjected to shoulder casting off are arranged to face each other and are joined together by shoulder casting off.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a knitting method for knitwear to beformed by joining knitting fabric without sewing, which is seamlesslyand cylindrically knitted. In particularly, the present inventionrelates to a knitting method for forming a broad neckline of knitwearsuch as a sweater or a cardigan and other knitting methods like that.

BACKGROUND ART

As explicitly stated in International Publication No. WO 01/55491 and asshown in FIGS. 7 and 8, the inventor of the present invention hasproposed a knitting method for non-sewing knitwear, with which a frontneckline 310 being broad in a forwardly hanging manner is formed on abreast 100 a by using a flat knitting machine. The machine has at leasta pair of front and back needle beds extending to the right and leftdirection and facing each other in the front and back direction, with atleast one of the front and back needle beds being capable of sidewaysracking and capable of loop transfer of knitted loops between the frontand back needle beds.

This proposal is basically such that, after a torso 100 (10 a, 100 b)and both sleeves 210(210 a, 21 b) and 220(220 a, 220 b) arecylindrically knitted from the hem to the armpits of knitwear and, whenthe breast 100 a is knitted, the front neckline 310 is formed on thebreast 100 a by knitting the breast 100 a such that the breast 100 a isbranched off into right and left breasts 110 a and 120 a so as tosandwich the neckline 300 from the start line of forming the neckline300 (the dotted line L1 shown in FIG. 8).

Then, in order to broadly form the neckline, during the process ofknitting the right and left breasts 110 a and 120 a (from the dottedline L2 shown in FIG. 8), by repeating an operation of returning allknitted loops of the back to the original needle bed after all knittedloops of the right or left breast 11 a or 120 a are transferred to theneedle bed having knitted loops of the back retained thereat and rackingof the transferred needle bed is performed so as to achieve knitting forgradually moving knitted loops of the right or left breast 110 a or 120a outward with respect to the center of the torso, increases of thefront neckline 310 are formed along the periphery 300.

Further, the knitted loops of the front neckline 310 are furtherincreased by using several knitted loops of the final course of each ofthe right and left breasts 110 a and 120 a from its end close to theneckline to point L3 shown in FIG. 8 for knitting the neckline.

By forming the front neckline 310 as described above, the number ofwales of the front neckline 310 is increased. As a result, not only acollar 400 which is sequentially knitted has a neckline with a largebore, but also the neckline 300 is spontaneously formed in a forwardlyhanging state.

When a sweater is produced by using the breast 100 a knitted so as tohave the broad neckline 300 as described above, the sweater is highlyfashionable and comfortable to wear since a wearer can easily get his orher head through the collar during wearing and is not tightened by thecollar.

However, with the above described knitting method, in order to formincreases at the neckline, all knitted loops of the right or left breast110 a or 120 a are transferred to the needle bed having the knittedloops of the back retained thereat, and after causing the transferredneedle bed to perform a racking action, by repeating the action ofreturning all knitted loops of the breast to the original needle bed,knitting is performed so as to gradually move the knitted loops of theright or left breast 110 a or 120 a outward with respect to the centerof the torso, whereby the loop transfer actions are performed twice asmuch as the number of the increases with respect to the same knittedloop when the knitted loops of the breast are transferred.

When the transferring actions are performed many times with respect tothe same knitted loop as described above, there arises a problem thatyawn is likely damaged.

Also, with the foregoing method for knitting a neckline, althoughseveral knitted loops are formed from the side end of the neckline ofthe final course of each of the right and left breasts 11 a and 120 a topoint L3 shown in FIG. 8, since a part of the final course of each ofthe right and left breasts 110 a and 120 a is used for knitting theneckline, the shoulder joining portion is shorter by that much and aback neckline 320 of the back 100 b is transversely longer.

When the back neckline 320 of the back 100 b is excessively longer, theentire neckline does not have a forwardly hanging shape but falls in astate of extending transversely, thereby causing a problem of beingunattractive and unfashionable.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention has been developed in view of the above-describedpresent state. Accordingly, it is an object of the present invention toprovide a knitting method for knitwear, which can reduce a load on yawnduring knitting and form a fashionable and broad neckline in a forwardlyhanging manner.

In order to achieve the above object, according to the presentinvention, a knitting method for knitwear in which a torso making up theknitwear is knitted so as to be a seamless and continuous cylinder byusing a flat knitting machine having at least a pair of front and backneedle beds extending to the left and right directions and facing eachother in the front and back directions, with at least one of the frontand back needle beds being capable of sideways racking, and capable ofloop transfer of knitted loops between the front and back needle beds isprovided. The knitting method is characterized by including thefollowing steps for knitting, when the torso is knitted from the armpitsto the shoulder after the torso is knitted from the hem to the armpitsand when a breast is knitted by branching off the breast into right andleft breasts from its front neckline forming portion so as to form aneckline on the torso.

1) A first step includes:

a process in which all knitted loops excluding those of either the rightor left breast are transferred to the needle bed having knitted loops ofa back retained thereat; racking of the needle bed is performed in thedirection in which one of the breasts of the needle bed having theknitted loops of the back retained thereat moves away from the otherbreast retained at the other needle bed by the number of pitches inproportion to the number of increases (i.e., the number of knitted loopsto be increased). After the breast retained at the other needle bed isknitted for a predetermined number of courses while increases of thefront neckline of the needle bed having the knitted loops of the backretained thereat are formed at its end close to the breast retained atthe other needle bed so as to correspond to the number of pitches ofracking, the knitted loops transferred to the needle bed having theknitted loops of the back retained thereat are transferred to theoriginal needle bed.

The first step also includes a process in which all knitted loopsexcluding those of the breast which are not subjected to knitting forthese predetermined number of courses are transferred to the needle bedhaving the knitted loops of the back retained thereat. Racking of theneedle bed is performed in the direction where the breast of the needlebed having the knitted loops of the back retained thereat moves awayfrom the breast retained at the other needle bed by the number ofpitches in proportion of the number of increases. After the breastretained at the other needle bed is knitted for the predetermined numberof courses while increases of the front neckline of the needle bedhaving the knitted loops of the back retained thereat are formed at itsend close to the breast retained at the other needle bed so as tocorrespond to the number of pitches of racking, the knitted loopstransferred to the needle bed having the knitted loops of the backretained thereat are transferred to the original needle bed.

The first step further includes a process in which the back is knittedfor the predetermined courses;

2) A second step includes, after or halfway through the first step, oneof the ends of the back knitted in the first step and the end, close toan armhole, of either the right or left breast knitted in the first stepare brought into a state of facing each other by a passing operation ofknitted loops, the operation composed of a racking operation of theneedle and loop transfer to the front and back needle beds, the back andeither the right or left breast are joined together by shoulder castingoff.

3) A third step includes, after the first and second steps, the end ofthe back which is not subjected to shoulder casting off, and the end,close to the armhole, of either the left or right breast which is notsubjected to shoulder casting off are brought into a state of facingeach other by the passing operation of the knitted loops, the operationcomposed of a racking operation of the needle bed and loop transfer tothe front and back needle beds, and the back and either the left andright breast are joined together by shoulder casting off.

Also, according to the present invention, in the above-describedknitting method for knitwear, the first step includes a first necklineincrease step in which increases of the front neckline are processedwhile the right and left breasts are knitted for the predeterminedcourses, each with the same number of knitted loops, and the back isknitted for the predetermined courses.

A second neckline increase step includes, following the knitting of thebreast and the back by the first neckline increase step, increases ofthe front neckline are processed while knitting the right and leftbreasts for the predetermined courses with their ends close to thearmholes being processed by partial knitting, and the back is knittedfor the predetermined courses.

Knitting in the second and third steps is performed after one of thebreasts is knitted by the second neckline increase step.

Knitwear to be knitted is preferably a set-in type sweater.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

FIG. 1 illustrates a round-necked set-in sweater as a first embodimentof knitwear according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 illustrates a state in which all parts making up the sweater asthe first embodiment are knitted by a flat knitting machine.

FIG. 3 illustrates Steps 1 to 9 of the knitting steps of the sweater asthe first embodiment.

FIG. 4 illustrates Steps 10 to 17 of the knitting steps of the sweateras the first embodiment.

FIG. 5 illustrates Steps 18 to 25 of the knitting steps of the sweateras the first embodiment.

FIG. 6 illustrates a state in which all parts making up a sweater as asecond embodiment are knitted by a flat knitting machine.

FIG. 7 illustrates a known round-necked set-in sweater.

FIG. 8 illustrates a state in which all parts making up the knownround-necked set-in sweater are knitted by a flat knitting machine.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Embodiments of knitting methods for knitwear according to the presentinvention will be described with reference to the drawings.

According to the present embodiments, knitwear is knitted with aso-called double-bed flat knitting machine which extends to the rightand left direction and has a pair of front and back needle beds facingeach other in the front and back direction. The back needle bed iscapable of sideways racking, and the front and back needle beds arecapable of transferring knitted loops therebetween.

When knitting cylindrical knitwear, the double-bed flat knitting machineis designed to knit it by using every other needle of each of the frontand back needle beds. For example, the odd-numbered needles of the frontneedle bed are mainly used for knitting a piece of knitting fabric ofthe front portion of the knitwear such as a breast or the front potionof a sleeve, and the even-numbered needles of the back needle bed aremainly used for knitting the back portion of the knitwear such as theback or the back portion of the sleeve. In addition, the front and backneedle beds are designed such that the needles of the other needle bedopposing those of one needle bed used for knitting are designated asempty needles and these empty needles are used for loop transfer, ribknitting, or the like.

With these empty needles, a constitution pattern mixed with facestitches and back stitches of a link, a suspender, a rib or the like isknitted, or knitted loops of the sleeve and the torso are moved in thecourse direction and jointed together.

Also, when the double-bed flat knitting machine is used, knitting fabricmay be knitted by disposing a transfer jack bed with a number oftransfer jacks above one or both of the front and back needle beds.

Meanwhile, according to the present embodiments, although the knitwearis knitted with a double-bed flat knitting machine, the presentinvention allows the knitwear to be knitted with a quadruple-bed flatknitting machine composed of upper and lower front needle beds, andupper and lower back needle beds.

When the quadruple-bed flat knitting machine is used, for example, thefront and back portions of the knitwear are respectively attached to thelower front and back needle beds. In addition, the upper front and backneedle beds are used as empty needles for, for example, loop transfer ofthe knitting fabric of the front and back portions in order to knit theknitting fabric of the front and back portions, respectively.

The present embodiments provide knitting methods for knitwear with atorso and sleeves making up the knitwear so as to be seamless andcontinuous cylinders by using the foregoing two-bed flat knittingmachine.

A first embodiment of the present invention will be described withreference to FIGS. 1 to 5. FIG. 1 illustrates a set-in sweater 1 asknitwear knitted by a knitting method according to the presentinvention. FIG. 2 illustrates a paper pattern (stitch arrangement) of atorso and sleeves making up the sweater 1, in which a back 2 b andright- and left-sleeve back portions 13 b and 3 b of both sleevesappearing at the back of the sweater when it is worn are shown in theupper part of the figure and a breast 2 a and right- and left-sleevefront portion 13 a and 3 a of both sleeves appearing at the front of thesweater when it is worn are shown in the lower part of the figure.

The back 2 b and the left- and right-sleeve back portions 3 b and 13 bare mainly knitted by odd-numbered needles on a back needle bed BB, andthe breast 2 a and the left- and right-sleeve front portions 3 a and 13a are mainly knitted by even-numbered needles on a front needle bed FB.

The sweater 1 knitted according to the present embodiment is around-necked type and is designed such that the breast 2 a and the back2 b are joined together on the shoulder line by bringing the lengths(the number of courses) of the breast 2 a and the back 2 b from the hemsto the joining portions with the sleeves at the shoulder into agreementwith each other.

Although the knitting weave of the torso and the sleeves of the sweater1 are plain knitted and plain colored for the sake of explanation, itmay have a constitution pattern such as jacquard or rib.

As shown in FIG. 2, in the sweater 1, points A and a of the breast 2 aindicating armpits are joined with the corresponding points P and p ofthe left- and right-sleeve front portions 3 a and 13 a, and points H andh of the back 2 b are joined with the corresponding points S and s ofthe left- and right-sleeve back portions 3 b and 13 b.

Then, the breast 2 a and the left- and right-sleeve front portions 3 aand 13 a are joined together along armholes 23, and the back 2 b and theleft- and right-sleeve back portions 3 b and 13 b are joined togetheralong the same.

The breast 2 a has a different shape from the back 2 b and, as shown inFIG. 2, is knitted while being branched off into left and right breasts21 a and 22 a from points G and g from which a neckline 4 starts to beformed.

Further, after the start of forming the neckline 4, the knitting of thetorsos 2 a and 2 b and the sleeves 3 and 13 is performed such that,while knitting the left breast 21 a, the left-sleeve front portion 3 a,the left-sleeve back portion 3 b, the back 2 b, the right-sleeve backportion 13 b, the right sleeve front portion 13 a, the right breast 22 ain that order or in the reverse order to that, the left-sleeve frontportion 3 a is joined with the left breast 21 a, the left- andright-sleeve back portions 3 b and 13 b are joined with the back 2 b,and the right sleeve front portion 13 a is joined with the right breast22 a, all along the armholes 23.

The breast 2 a and the back 2 b are joined together at the shoulderportion after the left and right sleeves 3 and 13 are joined together.

Then, a collar 5 is knitted by rib knitting along a circle formed byline e-y-f-g-G-F-Y-E-K-k-e.

Meanwhile, in the present embodiment, terms indicating left and right ofa torso and sleeves (for example, left and right of the left and rightbreasts 21 a and 22 a) and the like are described with reference to awearer wearing the sweater 1.

FIGS. 3 to 5 illustrate a knitting step diagram showing detailedknitting at each step when the sweater 1 is knitted from the hem towardthe shoulder (the steps being indicated by the numbers along the leftside of the figures).

In the knitting step diagram, the breast 2 a, the back 2 b, the sleeves3 and 13, and a front neckline 41 of the breast 2 a are respectivelydepicted with a bold line, a thin solid line, a double line, and adotted line.

Step 1 is a process in which, by repeating knitting in which, afterfeeding knitting yarns from feeding ports (not shown) respectivelyprepared for knitting the torso and the sleeves to every needle of thefront needle bed FB, the feeding ports are inverted so as to feed theknitting yarns to every needle of the back needle bed BB, knitting ofrubber knitting portions 61 and 62 to the hem of the cylindrical torsoand the cuffs of the cylindrical right and left sleeves starts.

Step 2 is a process in which, in conjunction with knitting of a torso 2,knitting of the left and right sleeves 3 and 13 is performed whilemagnifying their cylinder bores, and the knitting is finished short ofthe armpit portions (shown by points A, P, a, p, S, H, s, and h in FIG.2).

Step 3 is a process in which the torso 2 and the left and right sleeves3 and 13 are integrated into a single cylindrical body at the armpitportions. In this state, knitting is performed, for example, by feedingthe knitting yarns used for knitting the torso through the feedingports.

Step 4 is a process in which every piece of knitting fabric is retainedat the needle beds when the knitting of the breast 2 a reaches thepositions G and g at which formation of the neckline 4 starts. Thebreast 2 a is branched off into the left and right breasts 21 a and 22 afrom these points.

Meanwhile, from Step 3 to Step 4, by repeating knitting in which, whileknitting the left and right sleeves 3 and 13, for example, with theratio 3:1 of the numbers of course knitting of the torso portion and thesleeve portions of the cylindrical body formed by the torso 2 and thesleeves 3 and 13, knitting yarns are superposed by moving both sleeves 3and 13 toward the torso 2, the bore diameter of the cylindrical bodyformed by the torso 2 and the sleeves 3 and 13 is gradually reduced. Atthe same time, the knitted width of the torso 2 is reduced.

Step 5 is a process in which the left breast 21 a is knitted from lineB-G to line C-F shown in FIG. 2. In Step 5, by tucking the end of theleft breast 21 a close to the neckline by every other course, partialknitting which sequentially brings the knitted loops along the peripheryof the neckline 4 along line G-F in an inoperative state is performed,and the left-sleeve front portion 3 a and the left breast 21 a arejoined together at the same time.

In Step 5, all knitted loops of the left-sleeve front portion 3 a aretransferred to the empty needles of the back needle bed BB having theknitted loops of the back 2 b retained thereat.

The left breast 21 a is knitted from its side close to the armhole byone course, and the following one course is knitted while tucking theknitted loop of the end of the breast 21 a close to the neckline to theneedle having the knitted loop of the neckline retained thereat (theneedle having knitted loop G retained thereat).

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesleftward in FIG. 3, and the knitted loop of the end of the left-sleevefront portion 3 a close to the breast is transferred to that of the endof the left breast 21 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with thesame.

By repeating a series of these operations for the predetermined coursesuntil reaching line F-C, the left-sleeve front portion 3 a and the leftbreast 21 a are joined together while forming the front neckline 41.When the knitting is finished up to line F-C, the knitted loops of theleft-sleeve front portion 3 a retained at the back needle bed BB arereturned to the front needle bed FB.

Step 6 is a process in which the right breast 22 a is knitted from lineb-g to line c-f shown in FIG. 2. Also in Step 6, by tucking the end ofthe right breast 22 a close to the neckline by every other course,partial knitting which sequentially brings the knitted loops along theperiphery of the neckline 4 in an inoperative state along line g-f isperformed, and also the right sleeve front portion 13 a and the rightbreast 22 a are joined together.

In Step 6, all knitted loops of the right sleeve front and back portions13 a and 13 b retained at the front needle bed FB are transferred to theempty needles of the back needle bed BB having the knitted loops of theback 2 b retained thereat.

The right breast 22 a is knitted from the side of the armhole by onecourse (length), and the following course (length) is knitted whiletucking the knitted loop of the end of the breast 22 a close to theneckline to the needle having the knitted loop of the neckline retainedthereat (the needle having the knitted loop g retained thereat).

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesrightward in FIG. 3, and the knitted loop of the end of the right sleevefront portion 13 a close to the breast is transferred to that of the endof the right breast 22 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with thesame.

By repeating a series of these operations for the predetermined coursesuntil reaching line f-c, the right sleeve front portion 13 a and theright breast 22 a are joined together while forming the front neckline41. When the knitting operation is finished up to line f-c, all knittedloops of the right sleeve front and back portions 13 a and 13 b retainedat the back needle bed BB are returned to the front needle bed FB.

With the knitting operations in Steps 5 and 6, the start portion of thefront neckline 41 is formed along line F-G-g-f, thereby bringing about astate of Step 7.

Step 8 is a process in which the back 2 b is knitted from line I-i toline Z-z while being joined with the left- and right-sleeve backportions 3 b and 13 b.

In Step 8, after only the back 2 b is knitted by two courses, allknitted loops of the back 2 b and the left-sleeve back portion 3 b, allretained at the back needle bed BB, are transferred to the empty needlesof the front needle bed FB.

Then, after racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by twopitches toward the left-sleeve back portion 3 b (rightward in FIG. 3),all knitted loops of the back 2 b retained at the front needle bed FBare returned to the back needle bed BB. With this operation, the knittedloops of the ends of the back 2 b and the right-sleeve back portion 13 bare superposed and joined together.

Subsequently, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed rightwardin FIG. 3 by two additional pitches, and the knitted loop of the end,close to the torso, of the left-sleeve back portion 3 b retained at thefront needle bed FB is transferred to the back needle bed BB. With thisoperation, the knitted loops of the ends of the back 2 b and theleft-sleeve back portion 3 b are superposed and joined together.

Then, in a state in which the knitted loops of the left-sleeve backportion 3 b are retained at the front needle bed FB, the same operationsas described above, composed of knitting of the back 2 b, the rackingoperation of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer of the knitted loopsof the back 2 b, and loop transfer of the knitted loop of the end, closeto the torso, of the left-sleeve back portion 3 b to the back needle bedBB are repeated. By performing a series of these operations for thepredetermined courses, the left-sleeve back portion 3 b and the back 2 bare joined together.

Also, in Step 8, subsequently, all knitted loops of the left-sleeve backportion 3 b retained at the empty needles of the front needle bed FB arereturned to the back needle bed BB, and, after only the back 2 b isknitted by two courses, all knitted loops of the back 2 b and theright-sleeve back portion 13 b, all retained at the back needle bed BB,are transferred to the empty needles of the front needle bed FB.

Then, after racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by twopitches toward the right-sleeve back portion 13 b (leftward in FIG. 3),all knitted loops of the back 2 b retained at the front needle bed FBare returned to the back needle bed BB. With this operation, the knittedloops of the ends of the back 2 b and the left-sleeve back portion 3 bare superposed and joined together.

Subsequently, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed leftward inFIG. 3 by two additional pitches, and the knitted loop of the end, closeto the torso, of the right-sleeve back portion 13 b retained at thefront needle bed FB is transferred to the back needle bed BB. With thisoperation, the knitted loops of the ends of the back 2 b and theright-sleeve back portion 13 b are superposed and joined together.

Then, in a state in which the knitted loops of the right-sleeve backportion 13 b are retained at the front needle bed FB, the sameoperations as described above, composed of knitting of the back 2 b, theracking operation of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer of theknitted loops of the back 2 b, and the end, close to the torso, of theright-sleeve back portion 13 b to the back needle bed BB are repeated.By performing a series of these operations for the predetermined numberof courses, the right-sleeve back portion 13 b and the back 2 b arejoined together. The knitting in Step 8 brings about a state of Step 9.

In Steps 10 to 15, a first neckline increase step in a process of afirst step according to the present invention is performed so as to knitthe front neckline 41 for increasing its knitted width from lineF-G-g-f. Specifically, knitting for forming the front neckline 41 isperformed from line F-Y to line f-y.

Step 10 shows a state in which course knitting of the left breast 21 ais illustrated, and the left breast 21 a is knitted from line C-F toline D-Y. During this course knitting, the left portion of the neckline4 is also formed.

In Step 10, first of all, the right sleeve front portion 13 a, the rightbreast 22 a, the front neckline 41 (line F-G-g-f), and the left-sleevefront portion 3 a, all retained at the front needle bed FB, aretransferred to the empty needles of the back needle bed BB.

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitches tothe direction (leftward in FIGS. 3 and 4) along which the right breast22 a moves away from the left breast 21 a retained at the front needlebed FB. After the racking, the left breast 21 a is knitted by onecourse. After the knitted loop of the end of the left-sleeve frontportion 3 a close to the breast is transferred to that of the end of theleft breast 21 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with it, the leftbreast 21 a is knitted by one course while forming a one-knitted-loopincrease at empty needles next to the end of the left breast 21 a in theknitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained at the back needle bedBB.

Further, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesto the direction (leftward in FIGS. 3 and 4) along which the rightbreast 22 a moves away from the left breast 21 a retained at the frontneedle bed FB. After the racking, the left breast 21 a is knitted by onecourse, and, after the knitted loop of the end of the left-sleeve frontportion 3 a close to the breast is transferred to that of the end of theleft breast 21 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with it, the leftbreast 21 a is formed by one course while forming a one-knitted-loopincrease at empty needles next to the end of the left breast 21 a in theknitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained at the back needle bedBB.

As described above, when the operations of racking the back needle bedBB by the number of pitches in proportion to the number of increases(two pitches for a one-knitted-loop increase) and knitting the leftbreast 21 a for the predetermined number of courses while formingincreases corresponding to the number of pitches of the racking at theend, close to the left breast 21 a, of the front neckline 41 retained atthe back needle bed BB are repeated by the predetermined number oftimes, the left-sleeve front portion 3 a and the left breast 21 a can bejoined together while providing the front neckline 41 with increasedknitted loops.

In Step 10, the left breast 21 a is knitted for eight courses, each withthe same number of knitted loops, and also the left-sleeve front portion3 a is completely joined with the left breast 21 a.

At this moment, an increase is formed at the empty needle of the backneedle bed BB, close to the end of the neckline for every knittingcourse of the left breast 21 a, the knitted loops of the periphery ofthe front neckline 41 are sequentially formed in an inoperative statealong line F-Y, and the number of knitted loops of the front neckline 41is increased by 4 (wales) during Step 10.

After the knitting of Step 10, transferring the right sleeve frontportion 13 a, the right breast 22 a, and the front neckline 41 (lineY-F-G-g-f), all retained at the back needle bed BB, to the front needlebed FB brings about Step 11. Thus, the front neckline 41 is formed alongline F-Y and also the left-sleeve front portion 3 a is completely joinedwith the left breast 21 a.

Step 12 shows a state in which course knitting of the right breast 22 ais illustrated, and the right breast 22 a is knitted from line c-f toline d-y. During this course knitting, the right side portion of theneckline 4 is also formed.

In Step 12, first of all, the left breast 21 a, the front neckline 41(line Y-F-G-g-f), and the right sleeve front portion 13 a, all retainedat the front needle bed FB, are transferred to the empty needles of theback needle bed BB.

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitches tothe direction (rightward in FIGS. 3 and 4) along which the left breast21 a moves away from the right breast 22 a retained at the front needlebed FB. After the racking, the right breast 22 a is knitted by onecourse, and, after the knitted loop of the front-end of the right sleevefront portion 13 a close to the torso is transferred to that of the endof the right breast 22 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with it,the right breast 22 a is knitted by one course while forming aone-knitted-loop increase at empty needles next to the end of the rightbreast 22 a in the knitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained atthe back needle bed BB.

Further, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesto the direction (rightward in FIGS. 3 and 4) along which the leftbreast 21 a moves away from the right breast 22 a retained at the frontneedle bed FB. After the racking, the right breast 22 a is knitted byone course, and, after the knitted loop of the end of the right sleevefront portion 13 a close to the breast is transferred to that of the endof the right breast 22 a close to the sleeve and is superposed with it,the right breast 22 a is formed by one course while forming aone-knitted-loop increase at empty needles next to the end of the rightbreast 22 a in the knitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained atthe back needle bed BB.

As described above, when the operations of racking the back needle bedBB by the number of pitches in proportion to the number of increases(two pitches for a one-knitted-loop increase) and knitting the rightbreast 22 a for the predetermined courses while forming increasescorresponding to the number of pitches of the racking at the end, closeto the right breast 22 a, of the front neckline 41 retained at the backneedle bed BB are repeated by the predetermined number of times, theright sleeve front portion 13 a and the right breast 22 a can be joinedtogether while providing the front neckline 41 with an increased numberof knitted loops.

In Step 12, the right breast 22 a is knitted for eight courses, eachwith the same number of knitted loops, and also the right sleeve frontportion 13 a is completely joined with the right breast 22 a.

At this moment, an increase is formed at the empty needle of the backneedle bed BB, close to the end of the neckline for each knitting courseof the right breast 22 a, the knitted loops of the periphery of thefront neckline 41 are sequentially formed in an inoperative state alongline f-y, and the number of knitted loops of the front neckline 41 isincreased by 4 (wales) during Step 12.

After the knitting of Step 12, transferring the left breast 21 a and thefront neckline 41 (line Y-F-G-g-f-y), all retained at the back needlebed BB, to the front needle bed FB brings about Step 13. Thus, the frontneckline 41 is formed along line f-y and also the right sleeve frontportion 13 a is completely joined with the right breast 22 a.

Step 14 is a process in which the back 2 b is knitted from line Z-z toline J-j while being joined with the left- and right-sleeve backportions 3 b and 13 b.

In Step 14, after only the back 2 b is knitted by two courses, allknitted loops of the back 2 b and the left-sleeve back portion 3 bretained at the back needle bed BB are transferred to the empty needlesof the front needle bed FB.

Then, after racking the back needle bed BB by two pitches toward theleft-sleeve back portion 3 b (rightward in FIG. 4), all knitted loops ofthe back 2 b retained at the front needle bed FB are returned to theback needle bed BB. With this operation, the knitted loops of the endsof the back 2 b and the right-sleeve back portion 13 b are superposedand joined together.

Subsequently, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed rightwardin the FIG. 4 by two additional pitches, and the knitted loop of theend, close to the torso, of the left-sleeve back portion 3 b retained atthe front needle bed FB is transferred to the back needle bed BB. Withthis operation, the knitted loops of the ends of the back 2 b and theleft-sleeve back portion 3 b are superposed and joined together.

Then, in a state in which the knitted loops of the left-sleeve backportion 3 b are retained at the front needle bed FB, the same operationsas the above-described ones composed of knitting the back 2 b, theracking operation of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer of theknitted loop of the back 2 b, and loop transfer of the knitted loop ofthe end, close to the torso, of the left-sleeve back portion 3 b to theback needle bed BB are repeated. By performing a series of theseoperations for a predetermined number of times, the left-sleeve backportion 3 b and the back 2 b are joined together.

Also, in Step 14, subsequently, all knitted loops of the left-sleeveback portion 3 b retained at the empty needles of the front needle bedFB are returned to the back needle bed BB, and, after only the back 2 bis knitted by two courses, all knitted loops of the back 2 b and theright-sleeve back portion 13 b retained at the back needle bed BB aretransferred to the empty needles of the front needle bed FB.

Then, after racking the back needle bed BB by two pitches toward theright-sleeve back portion 13 b (leftward in FIG. 4), all knitted loopsof the back 2 b retained at the front needle bed FB are returned to theback needle bed BB. With this operation, the knitted loops of the endsof the back 2 b and the left-sleeve back portion 3 b are superposed andjoined together.

Subsequently, racking the back needle bed BB is performed leftward inFIG. 4 by two additional pitches, and the knitted loop of the end, closeto the torso, of the right-sleeve back portion 13 b retained at thefront needle bed FB is transferred to the back needle bed BB. With thisoperation, the knitted loops of the ends of the back 2 b and theright-sleeve back portion 13 b are superposed and joined together.

Then, in a state in which the knitted loops of the right-sleeve backportion 13 b are retained at the front needle bed FB, the sameoperations as described above, composed of the knitting of the back 2 b,the racking operation of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer of theknitted loops of the back 2 b, and loop transfer of the knitted loop ofthe end, close to the torso, of the right-sleeve back portion 13 b tothe back needle bed BB are repeated. By repeating a series of theseoperations for a predetermined number of times, the right-sleeve backportion 13 b and the back 2 b are completely joined together.

Then, while performing a passing operation of the operations repeatingrightward racking of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer of theknitted loop of the right end of the back needle bed BB to the front FB,and also loop transfer of the knitted loop of the left end of the frontneedle bed FB to the back needle beds FB and BB, the knitted loops,hooked at the needles of the front and back needle beds FB and BB, ofthe ends of the left breast 21 a and the back 2 b, respectively, closeto the armhole are brought into a state of facing each other as shown inStep 15.

In Steps 16 to 25, while performing knitting for forming a shoulder lineof the torso to the armhole, knitting of the front neckline 41 forincreasing its knitted width from line y-f-g-G-F-Y of the same isperformed so as to complete formation of the neckline 4.

Step 16 shows a state in which the partial knitting is applied to theleft breast 21 a from line D-Y to line D-E of the same in order to formthe shoulder line portion of the left breast 21 a to the armhole.

In Step 16, first of all, the knitted loops of the right breast 22 a andthe front neckline 41 (line y-f-g-G-F-Y) retained at the front needlebed FB are transferred to the empty needles of the back needle bed BB.

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesleftward in FIG. 4. After the racking, while knitting the left breast 21a by two courses by partial knitting, a one-knitted-loop increase isformed at the needles next to the end of the left breast 21 a in theknitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained at the back needle bedBB. In addition, a passing operation of transferring the knitted loop ofthe end, close to the armhole, of the left breast 21 a retained at thefront needle bed FB to the empty needle of the back needle bed BBsequentially from the outside is performed.

As described above, when the operations of racking the back needle bedBB by the number of pitches in proportion to the number of knitted loopincreases (two pitches for a one-knitted-loop increase) and knitting theleft breast 21 a for performing the predetermined courses while formingincreases corresponding to the number of pitches of the racking at theend, close to the left breast 21 a, of the front neckline 41 retained atthe back needle bed BB are repeated a predetermined number of times, theshoulder line portion to the armhole can be formed by applying partialknitting to the left breast 21 a while providing the front neckline 41with knitted loop increases.

In Step 16, while knitting a portion of the left breast 21 a close tothe arm hole by partial knitting so as to knit the left breast 21 a foreight courses, the knitted loops of the periphery of the front neckline41 are sequentially made in an inoperative state along line Y-E, and thenumber of knitted loops of the front neckline 41 is increased by anadditional four (wales).

After the knitting operation in Step 16, while performing a passingoperation of repeating the operations of transferring the knitted loopsof the right breast 22 a and the front neckline 41 (line y-f-g-G-F-Y-E)retained at the empty needles of the back needle bed BB to the frontneedle bed FB, rightward racking of the back needle bed BB, looptransfer of the knitted loop of the right end of the back needle bed BBto the front needle bed FB, and loop transfer of the knitted loop of theleft end of the front needle bed FB to the back needle bed BB, theknitted loops, hooked at the needles of the front and back needle bedsFB and BB, of the ends of the left breast 21 a and the back 2 b,respectively, close to the armhole are brought into a state of facingeach other as shown in Step 17.

According to Step 17, the front neckline 41 is formed along line Y-E asshown in FIG. 2.

Step 18 is a process in which the back 2 b is knitted from line J-j toline K-k while knitting both ends by partial knitting. When the back 2 bis knitted, it is knitted by partial knitting by applying a tuckingprocess or the like to the knitted loops of both ends so as tosequentially bring them into an inoperative state.

With completion of knitting in Step 18, since the ends, close to thearmhole, of the left breast 21 a hooked at the needles of the frontneedle bed FB and the back 2 b hooked at the needles of the back needlebed BB face each other, the left breast 21 a is joined with the back 2 bby casting-off as shown in Step 19. The portions joined by casting-offare detached from the needles of the front and back needle beds.

Then, in order to transfer all knitted loops of the right breast 22 a tothe front needle bed FB, a passing operation of repeating the operationof loop transfer of the knitted loop of the right end of the frontneedle bed FB to the back needle bed BB, and loop transfer of theknitted loop of the left end of the back needle bed BB to the frontneedle bed FB while racking the back needle bed BB leftward is performedso as to bring about a state of Step 20.

Step 21 is a process in which, in order to form a shoulder line portionto the armhole at the right breast 22 a from the state of Step 20,partial knitting is applied to the right breast 22 a from line d-y toline d-e.

In Step 21, first of all, all knitted loops of the front neckline 41(line y-f-g-G-F-Y-E) retained at the front needle bed FB are transferredto the empty needles of the back needle bed BB.

Then, racking of the back needle bed BB is performed by two pitchesrightward in FIG. 4. After the racking, a passing operation is performedby forming increases at the empty needles next to the end the rightbreast 22 a in the knitted loops of the front neckline 41 retained atthe back needle bed BB while knitting the right breast 22 a by twocourses by partial knitting, and transferring the knitted loop end ofthe right breast 22 a close to the armhole to the empty needle of theback needle bed BB sequentially from the outside.

As described above, when the operations of racking the back needle bedBB by the number of pitches in proportion to the number of increases(two pitches for a one-knitted-loop increase) and knitting the rightbreast 22 a for the predetermined courses while forming increasescorresponding to the number of pitches of the racking at the end, closeto the right breast 22 a, of the front neckline 41 retained at the backneedle bed BB are repeated a predetermined number of times, the rightbreast 22 a can be narrowed and the shoulder line portion to the armholecan be formed while providing the front neckline 41 with increases.

In Step 21, while knitting a portion of the right breast 22 a close tothe arm hole by partial knitting so as to knit the right breast 22 a foreight courses, the knitted loops of the periphery of the front neckline41 are sequentially brought in an inoperative state along line y-e, andthe number of knitted loops of the front neckline 41 is increased by anadditional four (wales).

After the knitting operation in Step 21, while performing a passingoperation of repeating the operations of loop transfer of the knittedloops of the front neckline 41 (line e-y-f-g-G-F-Y-E) retained at theempty needles of the back needle bed BB to the front needle bed FB,performing leftward racking of the back needle bed BB, loop transfer ofthe knitted loop of the left end of the back needle bed BB to the frontneedle bed FB, and also loop transfer of the knitted loop of the rightend of the front needle bed FB to the back needle bed BB, the knittedloops, hooked at the needles of the front and back needle beds FB and BBof the ends of the right breast 22 a and the back 2 b, respectively,close to the armhole are brought into a state of facing each other asshown in Step 22.

According to Step 22, the front neckline 41 is formed along line y-e asshown in FIG. 2.

Then, as shown in Step 23, the right breast 22 a is joined with the back2 b by casting-off. The portions joined by casting-off are detached fromthe needles, and only the front neckline 41 and a back neck line 42 inStep 24 are hooked at the needles of the front and back needle beds.

Further, in order to form the collar 5 along the neckline 4, a passingoperation of repeating the operation of rightward racking of the backneedle bed BB and loop transfer is performed so as to bring the centersof the front neckline 41 of the breast 2 a and of the back neckline 42of the back 2 b in coincidence with each other, and thus a state of Step25 is brought about.

Even when the knitted width of the front neckline 41 is increased asdescribed above, and as a result, a large difference in knitted widthsbetween the front and back necklines 41 and 42 occurs, by balancing thenumber of stitches of knitting fabric retained at the front and backneedle beds by feeding the knitted loops of the side end of the frontneckline 41 of the breast 2 a to the back needle bed BB, the knittedloops at the boundary can maintain a mutually close state withoutdetaching from each other. As a result, occurrence of broken threads canbe prevented and a cylindrical body can be knitted.

Then, the collar 5 is knitted in the state of Step 25, and knitting ofthe sweater 1 is completed.

As described above, since only the front neckline 41 of the breast 2 ais provided with increases when the front neckline 41 is formed, theknitted width of the front neckline 41 is greater than that of the backneckline 42, whereby a difference in the front and back knitted widthscan be generated.

Furthermore, even when the knitted width of the front neckline 41 isgreater than that of the back neckline 42, after one of the shoulders isjoined by casting off, the other shoulder is aligned by passing knittingfabric retained at the front and back needle beds and is joined bycasting off, whereby the degree of freedom of the number of increases ofthe front neckline 41 can be increased without increasing the length ofthe back neckline 42. As a result, an excellently fashionable design canbe achieved.

In particular, according to the present embodiment, since the shoulderline portions to the armholes are formed on the shoulder portions of thebreast 2 a and the back 2 b, formation of the shoulder line portions tothe armholes allows the knitted loops of the front neckline 41 to beincreased by a desired number while the lengths of the armholes 23 arekept constant.

In addition, by feeding the knitted loops of both sides of the frontneckline 41 to the back needle bed BB, the knitted widths of the frontand back needle beds are aligned when the collar 5 is knitted, wherebythe collar portion can be cylindrically knitted without any problem.

As described above, according to the present embodiment, the knittedsweater 1 has an excellently fashionable feature without causing thelength of the back neckline 42 to become longer, with the neckline 4having a front hanging shape. In addition, it is comfortable to wearsince its wide bore neckline allows a wearer to easily pass his or herhead therethrough.

Further, although the shoulder lines to the armholes are formed on thetorso as shown in Steps 16 to 25 according to the first embodiment, theshoulder line portions to the armholes may not be knitted as illustratedin a paper pattern drawing shown in FIG. 6 according to a secondembodiment (that is, corresponding to that in which the triangular partsof the breast 2 a formed by line D-Y-E and line d-y-e, and thetrapezoidal part of the back 2 b formed by line j-k-K-J are excluded inFIG. 2).

Since the set-in sweater according to the second embodiment shown inFIG. 6 has the same shape and is knitted in the same manner as that upto Step 15 in the knitting step diagram shown in FIGS. 3 to 5, excludingthe triangular portions of the breast 2 a formed by line D-Y-E and byline d-y-e and the trapezoidal portion of the back 2 b formed by linej-k-K-J according to the first embodiment shown in FIG. 2, itsexplanation will be omitted.

In the case of the second embodiment, in the knitting step diagram shownin FIGS. 3 to 5, after joining the shoulder line portions of the leftbreast 21 a and the back 2 b with each other by casting off in the stateof Step 15, knitted fabric is passed so that the ends of the rightbreast 22 a and the back 2 b face each other, and the remaining shoulderportions are joined together by casting off.

Then, in order to form the collar 5 to the neckline 4, a passingoperation of cylindrically knitting fabric is performed while repeatingracking and loop transfer of the back needle bed BB so as to bring thecenters of the front neckline 41 of the breast 2 a and the back neckline42 of the back 2 b in coincidence with each other.

According to the present invention, as described in the foregoing firstand second embodiments, after the breast to be knitted is left at thefront needle bed FB and other knitted loops are transferred to the emptyneedles of the back needle bed BB when the front neckline 41 is formed,increased knitted loops are formed at the back needle bed BB whileracking it, and also the breast is knitted, whereby the number of looptransfers of the knitted loops can be reduced as much as possible. As aresult, knitting for forming increases of the front neckline 41 can beeasily carried out while reducing damage on yarn as little as possible.

According to the present embodiments, although the collar 5 is knittedso as to provide a round neck, a collar having a desired design such asa stand collar can be knitted. Also, a collar having a U-necked necklineor a V-necked neckline can be formed.

Meanwhile, the present invention is applicable to a set-in type sweaterhaving a design in which the joining portion of the breast and the backpasses across the shoulder line and enters the back. Also, the presentinvention is not limited to a sweater, and is also applicable to acardigan, a sleeveless sweater, a vest, and the like.

As described above, according to the present invention, by providingincreases only to the front neckline of the breast when the frontneckline is formed, the knitted width of the front neckline is greaterthan that of the back neckline, whereby a difference in the front andback knitted widths can be generated.

Further, when the front neckline is formed, after the breast to beknitted is left at the knitting needles, and the other knitted loops aretransferred to the empty needles of the other needle bed, increases areformed at the other needle bed while performing racking when the frontneckline is formed. Thus, the number of loop transfers of the knittedloops can be reduced as little as possible so as to reduce damage onyarn, and knitting for forming knitted loop increases of the frontneckline can be easily carried out.

Furthermore, even when the knitted width of the front neckline isgreater than that of the back neckline, after the joint of one of theshoulders is formed by casting off, the other shoulder is aligned bypassing knitting fabric retained at the front and back needle beds andits joint is formed by casting off. Thus, the degree of freedom of thenumber of increases of the front neckline can be increased withoutincreasing the length of the back neckline. As a result, an excellentlyfashionable design can be achieved.

Also, according to the present invention, since the shoulder lineportions to the armholes can be formed on the shoulder portions of thebreast and the back, formation of the shoulder line portions allows theknitted loops of the front neckline to be increased by a desired numberwhile the lengths of the armholes are kept constant.

1. A knitting method for knitwear in which a knitwear torso is knittedusing a flat knitting machine comprising at least a pair of front andback needle beds extending in the left direction and the right directionand facing each other in the front direction and back direction, atleast one of the front and back needle beds being capable of sidewaysracking, and being capable of loop transfer of knitted loops between thefront and back needle beds, the knitting method comprising: knitting thetorso from the hem to the armpits; after said knitting the torso fromthe hem to the armpits, knitting the torso from the armpits to theshoulder while knitting a breast portion by branching off the breastportion into a right breast portion and a left breast portion from afront neckline forming portion so as to form a neckline portion on thetorso, said knitting of the torso from the armpits to the shouldercomprising: a first process including: a first sub-process including:transferring all knitted loops excluding those of either the rightbreast portion or the left breast portion to a first needle bed havingknitted loops of a back portion retained thereat; racking the needlebeds in the direction in which one of the breast portions at the firstneedle bed having the knitted loops of the back portion retained thereatmoves away from the other of the breast portions retained at a secondneedle bed by a number of pitches in proportion to a number of knittedloops to be increased; and after knitting the breast portion retained atthe second needle bed for a predetermined number of courses while anincreased number of knitted loops of the front neckline at the firstneedle bed having the knitted loops of the back portion retained thereatare formed at an end close to the breast portion retained at the secondneedle bed so as to correspond to the number of racking pitches,transferring the knitted loops transferred to the first needle bedhaving the knitted loops of the back portion retained thereat to thesecond needle bed; a second sub-process including: transferring allknitted loops excluding those of the breast portion which is notsubjected to knitting for these predetermined number of courses to thefirst needle bed having the knitted loops of the back portion retainedthereat; racking the needle beds in the direction where the breastportion at the first needle bed having the knitted loops of the backportion retained thereat moves away from the breast portion retained atthe second needle bed by a number of pitches in proportion to a numberof knitted loops to be increased; and, after knitting the breast portionretained at the second needle bed for a predetermined number of courseswhile increases of the front neckline at the first needle bed having theknitted loops of the back portion retained thereat are formed at its endclose to the breast retained at the other needle bed so as to correspondto the number of pitches of racking, transferring the knitted loopstransferred to the first needle bed having the knitted loops of the backportion retained thereat to the second needle bed; and a thirdsub-process process including knitting the back portion for apredetermined number of courses; a second process including, after orhalfway through said first process, arranging an end of the back portionknitted in the first process and an end, close to an armhole, of eitherthe right breast portion or the left breast portion knitted in the firstprocess so as to face each other by a passing operation of knittedloops, the passing operation comprising racking of the needle beds andloop transfer to the front and back needle beds, and joining the backportion and either the right breast portion or the left breast portiontogether by shoulder casting off; and a third process including, aftersaid first process and the second process, arranging an end of the backportion which is not subjected to shoulder casting off, and an end,close to the armhole, of either the left breast portion or the rightbreast portion which is not subjected to shoulder casting off so as tofacing each other by the passing operation of knitted loops, the passingoperation comprising racking of the needle beds and loop transfer to thefront and back needle beds, and joining the back portion and either theleft breast portion and the right breast portion together by shouldercasting off.
 2. The knitting method of claim 1, wherein said firstprocess further includes initial processing increases of the frontneckline while knitting the right breast portion and the left breastportion for the predetermined number of courses, each with the samenumber of knitted loops, and knitting the back portion for thepredetermined number of courses; and after said knitting of the breastportion and the back portion by said initial precessing increases of thefront neckline, secondary processing increases of the front necklinewhile knitting the right breast portion and the left breast portion forthe predetermined number of courses with their ends close to thearmholes being processed by partial knitting, and knitting the backportion for the predetermined number of courses, wherein knitting duringsaid second process and said third process is performed after one of theright breast portion and the left breast portion is knitted by saidsecondary precessing increases of the front neckline.